Front Disc Brake Conversion - The JeepsterMan

Front Disc Brake Conversion


How to install front disc brakes on Willys Station Wagons & Trucks by JeepsterMan. Any questions call 314.798.6462 or email Guys this is john at JeepsterMan today we're going to talk about our front disc brake kit this kit fits the dana 25 container 27 and dana 30. um fits just about every willys and jeep vehicle that that's out there this is our kit that we assemble and that we make here this is made a lot of these parts are made here in the u.s and these parts are also available locally at a parts store if for some reason you install this kit later on you need some of these parts except for the rotor you do machine this rotor in house so we're just going to kind of talk about what sets our kit apart from others and we're going to go through a disassembly and assembly on how to put this kit together so our kit uses this 12 and a quarter inch rotor and then it's one and eight thick so this is the largest rotor that's out there on the market so as you can see this big heavy duty rotor um this like i said is machined here in-house we do this is our bracket us-made allows you to clock this caliper in different positions if we need to we normally clack it at 10 and 2 which we'll talk about later our kit comes with new rubber hoses that have the banjo fitting on one end and the other fitting for your hard line and this is this is another part that really sets our kit apart from others so this is a gm metric caliper but this is the big bore one that we use here so this is two and three quarter inch this this board for this caliper so if you see some of the other kits out there like suzuki those that's a really small piston that they use on those kits um and this one here this is an aftermarket caliper that we use this one's also interchangeable meaning you can interchange where the banjo bolt or um where the bleeder screw goes so sometimes people get these and they're like hey shouldn't it be a right and left now you just switch these out to whichever side you're using it because you always want your bleeder facing to the top our kit comes with pads now our kit does not come with new hubs but i have a hub sitting here just to show you what keeps the price down on our kit is that you get to reuse your hubs so since you're reusing your hubs i don't have to charge you for new hubs and such because ours is a slide on over the hub meaning that this rotor is going to slide on over that hub when we're done another thing is if you have an early dana 25 or an early dana 27 yours uses these little short a484 studs so if you have the early one and you're going to need to use wheel spacers we supply these longer wheel studs you'll need those if you're going to use wheel spacers because the thickness of this rotor and if you're using a wheel space you would need that longer stud but that's only on the early dana 25 and dana 27. so then we're going to move over here i'm going to show you today we're working this is a 1960 willie's station wagon all right this is a dana 25 and this is like the earlier style day in the 25 i was talking about with the short studs but you can see here we've got our rubber hose assembled there i got this whole kit installed there's our rotor like i said our rotor slides on over on top of the hub there that's the uh caliper we're talking about with the big bore two and three-quarter inch and this one i'm using a wheel spacer the 16-inch wheel on a station wagon pickup truck you can use a one-inch wheel spacer on that if you're using aftermarket wheels some aftermarket wheels you don't need a wheel spacer um so now we're just gonna go to the other side over here and we're gonna go through the disassembly process uh so basically the first thing you need to do you go ahead and remove your lockout there um and then this one behind the lock out here got six more bolts there 9 16 i have to remove and from there you're going to see i'm going to take the spindle washer um and the axle nut and all that stuff off so i can slide this whole hub assembly with the drum off there once you do that you're going to need to press those apart so we're going to do this and then we'll come back in this video i'm just showing the disassembly here i took the outer um locking hub off which uses allen head so i remove that and there's six of these bolts that hold the rest of the locking hub uh there so i removed all those and then from there i've got these parts laying on my table i took the um axle nut it should be an axle nut a washer then another axle nut and a washer now this one is missing one of the washers um and then you're gonna need this tool too so this is uh an axle nut socket if you don't have one of these we do have these on the website it is kind of it's a large socket you'll need it for that axle if you don't have one so from there i've disassembled that this entire hub this is the early style like the dana 25 and 27 so you can see that the drum here is behind the hub all right so these are going to have to be disconnected later on but we're going to go ahead and slide this off i got it kind of ready i'm just going to take the whole assembly off just shimmy it back and forth just going to set this on the ground so that my bearings and everything don't fall out because like i said you're going to reuse this this hub here and these bearings you don't have to replace any of those

all right next from here you look so the only thing there's no point in taking all of these parts off it's just won't work so i'm just gonna take these six bolts off now um and just i'm gonna pull this whole backing plate with the shoes and everything because you're gonna replace this backing plate with our new bracket for the caliper before i do that you can see the rubber hose back here i'm going to go ahead and just snip this rubber hose um instead of unbolting it i'm just going to snip it here and unbolt it there because you're not going to reuse this rubber hose so we're going to do that and then we'll be back

break those back here so those bolts are just fine thread 9 16 so you're held in with that from there i'm just going to pull this whole backing plate all that off there all right let's set that on the floor we're not going to be reusing anything off of that something i want to show you this doesn't happen very often but it did happen on the station wagon this station wagon's got some wear on it you need to check this spindle um you don't often have to replace these but this one is chewed up so um none of the kits come with these because you don't normally have to replace these i'm going to go ahead and replace this one because your bearings are riding on the on that spindle there and that's just going to destroy those bearings so i am going to replace this one normally you just leave that all together there unless you're placing extra replacing extra seals but um we'll be back because next i'll put the new spindle on this thing and we're going to put our caliper bracket i'm going to disconnect this hose here and i'm going to get our new rubber hose ready to go so hey guys i just want to show you something we don't normally have to replace these parts when we do this kit but like i was showing you in the last video this spindle was all chewed up so when i pulled this spindle off and this is the first time i've seen it on this one the inside spindle bushing is bronze that's what's left of this one that bushing goes in there and rides on this axle shaft so just something to be mindful of i don't see this often but on this one you can see that's an obvious problem so i'm going to be putting a new spindle and a new spindle bushing on this one we're back here so we've done the complete disassembly um as you can see like i said we take the whole backing plate off and you slide the whole drum and everything off of the hub so now we're just going to talk about some of the reassembly that you do here and what comes with the kit so we tear it down to the spindle there i went ahead and installed this is the rubber hose that it comes with and then i put this clip back in there to hold this hose in place uh you can just reuse your old clip take the old one out and you put this in and then you can see it's got the banjo fitting on the other end of it um a little trick i can tell you about a lot of times your hard lines don't be surprised if this 3 8 nut here is could possibly be frozen up instead of using a line wrench because even a line wrench will usually strip these things out especially if they're very old and rusted put some pv blast on there pv blaster and then use a set of vice grips just clamp down with clampable vice grips on that fitting there and then take it loose and it usually doesn't strip out i do that nine times out of ten on these old vehicles like that so you don't strip it out so next we're going to talk about here's a couple of the parts we have all ready to go in the kit it comes with these new grade 8 these longer bolts that we're going to use to bolt our bracket on here so i've got these all ready to go now we're going to install the bracket so this is the bracket this is interchangeable for the left or the right side there's just a couple things you need to remember about this bracket here the offset is always going to go in towards the frame all right we don't want it out like that it's gonna go in towards the frame then we're gonna talk about clocking position so you can see it's got multiple holes here and there's only six so you can clock this in different directions but i always use ten and two that way you know your caliper and and everything is lined up by doing ten and two and the clearance is fine i guess you could clack it differently if you needed to for some reason but i i always clock these at ten and two so we're just going to go ahead and put this one you just slide it over the hub and i can already see that's our 10 o'clock position on this side and then on the um driver's side over there you'd clock it at two o'clock so we'll go ahead and start a couple of these fine thread bolts here

and this is 9 16 and it uses a lock washer there's six of them so it's really pretty easy this is just taking place of the old backing plate that was used on the drum brakes

and this plate as you can see is thicker so that's why we use a slightly longer grade eight bolt so we'll get these started once we do this we're gonna put the hub on next and like i was saying the hub you're reusing your old hub so that keeps the cost down on this kit and then i'm going to show you what we did to this hub as well here in a second i'll go ahead and zip these on real quick 9 16. just do it in a cross pattern

now i don't remember the exact

torque for these it's written down in the instructions it's probably around 35 pounds but it is in the instructions i just don't remember it off the top of my head

okay so that's how you install the bracket real easy like i said that offset goes towards the inside there that way it'll clear everything next we're going to talk about the hub so you're just reusing your old hub so make sure you check your bearings and everything make sure they're good because if they do need to be replaced now is the time to do that and the races went ahead and re-greased this and everything now this you can see i went ahead i installed the longer studs in this one so if you have the dana 25 or the early 27 like was on this where your um brake drum sits behind the hub you're going to need these longer studs and we do provide these studs if you have that axle when you need these so i pressed in new studs in this so now we're just going to slide this hub all over the spindle

all right push it all the way on there there you go now what's going to be next from there which we'll stop the video here in a second if we're going to be installing the new um this just reuses your old hardware but mine is missing some hardware so i got a new kit out and we're going to talk about this when we start to assemble this this is the nut and washer kit got two nuts two washers very important that you use all four of these mine was missing one of the washers another common problem i see which we'll talk about this when i assemble it you need to actually fold the edge of this over this last washer and fold this edge over that nut so it doesn't back off i've seen a lot of these that i've had apart before or that somebody else's had a part where they didn't fold that back over which this could back off i actually had a customer that did that one time it backed off and their whole wheel and tire almost fell off but luckily they noticed it so we're gonna stop the video for now and i'm gonna go ahead and assemble this together and then we'll be back we just got the spindle nut washer kit installed you reuse your old hardware i'd use new hardware on this because we're missing a washer just want to talk about that set your pre-load on your bearing because you want this to spin freely but basically it goes small washer first then one of the nuts then the large washer and then the last nut and i just want you to look this is what i was talking about that washer the large one needs to bend over um the axle nut there to keep that in place because it could back off when you're going down the road which would not be good i've opened these up before and people have worked on them and you could like they've forgotten to do that um just just make sure you do that i see that a lot of people either don't realize they're supposed to do that or they forget um so next we're just gonna talk about the other parts we're gonna install um next we're gonna install the rotor like we said this this kit is different than a lot of other kits because it's a slide over the hub type rotor system a lot of these other kits out there they use a rotor that goes behind this hub and some homes that are out there are not machined properly for that but some of the companies that sell those kits don't tell you that but you don't have to worry about that with ours because as you can see this surface here is machined flat and a rotor fits perfectly over that machine for it so you know this rotor that we use is 12 and a quarter inch one and eight thick so this is a large rotor compared to all the other kits out there um the suzuki rotor it's small the calipers are small um even the jeep ones that are out there this rotor is larger than those those jeep ones that they have a little trick that you see me doing just to kind of hold this rotor in place is i'm installing a lug nut so this rotor doesn't fall off when i go to put the caliper on next thing we're going to do after this is install the caliper but we'll talk about the caliper real quick too the caliper this is a gm metric style caliper this is the big bore caliper this is a new caliper right it's not rebuilt all the other kits out there you got a rebuilt caliper or the other thing a lot of the other kits out there use a much smaller bore on caliper but these here these are newly manufactured

really just a great caliper it's interchangeable too so you always want to you know reinstall this one on this side you always want to make sure that your bleeder screw is up it still has the cap on it and your band your banjo bolt is going to be on the bottom because you won't be able to bleed them properly our kits come with pads these are just d52 pads gm pads you can buy them at any local parts store i'm just going and slide that on there

sometimes it can be a little tricky all right so just slide that on there and then it comes with the bolts the caliper bolts install those through the back side

all right these are

this whole kit is really a pretty simple installation in my opinion i think it's easier to do these than doing drum brakes and then you got something that actually works a lot of these drum brakes that are out there some of the parts are becoming obsolete and then some of them you just can't hardly ever adjust drone brakes correctly they just don't stop nearly as well as these test brakes do this one's giving me a little hard time

all right i'm not going to completely tighten these down i just want to show you now so that's pretty much the installation of this kit i'll finish torquing those caliper bolts down then we'll come back we'll put the lockout back on but that that's pretty self-explanatory um but as you can see you know this kit it's pretty easy to install i still need to install the the rubber hose back here with the banjo bolt that it comes with but we'll do all that in the end that's pretty much the gist of this kit and how it's installed so i'll go ahead and torque everything down and we'll come back and just go over this and you'll be done with this kit installation all right so we're just going to talk about the final steps and installation for this kit here so i went ahead and finished installing the rubber hose back here um you can see the banjo bolt comes with two copper washers went ahead and installed that your banjo bolt should be on the bottom then your bleeder screw should be up top like we have there so you can bleed the system properly uh if you need to interchange those like i said you can interchange them because these calipers here fit the left or right side of the vehicle uh we went ahead and installed the lockout back on it's pretty self-explanatory it's just six nine sixteenths bolts and then the allen heads for these but if you have a different brain you could have something different so those are installed and real quick we'll talk about wheel spacers and we'll talk about the longer studs so if you've got 16 inch wheels the stock ones that came on like the willys pickup truck and station wagon this is a 16. you only need a one inch wheel spacer if you've got 15 inch stock wheels i've seen one in the hatch you're going to need to use a one and a half if you've got 15 inch wheels now there are some aftermarket wheels that are out there that will clear this caliper without needing any wheel spacers but there's no way for us to know everyone that will and will not i will tell you the aluminum wheels they usually take up more room because they're they're thick so i had to use a 17-inch aluminum wheel before and another kit um that didn't need wheel spacers but i had to go all the way up to a 17. these wheel spacers that we sell um they're basically and the reason this is why we installed the longer studs so the earlier style dana 25 and 27 have this little short stud on them because your your drum is sitting behind the hub that's why they can use these little short ones so this rotor it's it's thick um plus you say there's some thickness here whenever you install this when i reinstall the wheel spacer so the wheel spacer i've got a piece they're not clogged correctly when you install a wheel spacer um basically those studs have to be long enough for this as well so that's why we give you these longer studs in the uh in the kit if you've got the dana 25 or the early 27th and i am going to use one inch wheel spacers on this vehicle and that pretty much that concludes the entire installation on this if you've got any questions email sales at the you can always call us 314-798-6462

this kit is found on our website we've got the kit for the dana 25 and 27 we also have a kit for the dana 30. um and we just came up with you can show this came up with a new rear kit it's going to fit the dana 41 and the dana 44 but there'll be more to come on those and we'll do some other videos so like our video if you like it if you've got any questions let us know thanks

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